![]() ![]() Since there is still some sugar in there, you can slowly lower the temp to the middle of the recommended temp range by putting the fermenter into a 'swamp cooler' (google it or search for it on this forum).I recently A friend recently cleaned out his ferm fridge and forgot to plug it back in when he put a batch of beer in. Let the beer rise to the low end of the specified temp range (others will say to the middle or even the upper end of the range) and hold it there at least three or four days before letting it rise to the middle or top of the temp range I prefer to hold it until the specific gravity is unchanged over three days plus one week.I expected you to say the gravity was at 1.010, which would indicate fermentation was finished. I prefer to chill my wort to about five degrees F below the bottom of the yeast manufacturer's specified temperature range before pitching rehydrated dry yeast. ![]() Even with cold top-up water your wort was probably a little warm when you pitched the yeast. Your process sounds fine until you pulled the pot out of the ice bath at 100F. That's probably not going to make the best beer, but it will be beer, and you'll probably enjoy it.It sounds like you brewed a kit, which typically means very poor instructions. Suggestion: DO NOT throw it out.It sounds like you fermented above the recommended temperature range. Have I successfully brewed soap poison or is there a chance of salvation?Your suggestions on what to do at this point (even if that means throw it out and start again) are appreciated.Art. I took a hydrometer reading and if I'm reading it correctly it's at 1.030, significantly lower than the OG of 1.064 I was hoping for (the reading sits at 30 which I assume to be 1.030 but the little band inside the hydrometer says that's the upper end of 'Beer Start').So that's it guys and gals. When I got home from work the bubbling had stopped all together. The thermometer on the side of the container wasn't working but the brew was warm slightly to the touch. So went to bed, woke up 8 hours later and it was bubbling like crazy. What the hell, right?!? I then poured it into the plastic fermenter, topped with bottled water up to 5gal (19L), added a packet of dry yeast and left it (still very warm). ![]() Then resumed boil for 15 minutes.After the boil I chucked the pot in ice water until it dropped to around 100 (40C) at which point I remembered the Irish Moss and chucked it in anyway. With 15 minutes left I cut the heat and added a can of light liquid malt extract. I was supposed to add Irish Moss toward the end but forgot until later on. I then boiled for 60 minutes adding Warrior and Simcoe hops until the 35 minute mark and then some Cascade. I then added this 'tea' to 3.5gal (13L) of very hot water and stirred in 4lb (1.8kg) of dried malt extract then brought to the boil. Steeped them in a mesh bag at 152 (67C) in 2.25q (2.1L) for 45 minutes then rinsed with 1qt (1L) at 170 (77C). I don't have a mill so crushed them in a bag with a wine bottle. I'll get to the blow-by-blow but the short story is that after almost instantly exploding into active fermentation the brew stopped bubbling after less than 24 hours.The detail.1.5lb pale malt and 6.4oz amber malt. So I just started brewing again after maybe 15 years and decided, as you do, that it would be a good idea to jump straight into partial mash (my previous efforts were purely full kit paint-by-numbers extract brews). Beersmith activation codebeersmith activation code generatorbeersmith activation code keygenbeersmith 2 activation codebeersmith 2.2 activation codebeersmith 2 activation code freebeersmith 2.2.12 activation codebeersmith 2 activation code crackbeersmith code d'activationBeersmith.2.1.of.beersmith.2.1.beersmith.2.0.case.i.!beersmith.2.version.2.1.02.8c3c8f8e4. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |